There are places in North America that still look the way the continent looked at the end of the last ice age, and Glacier Bay is one of them. Located in southeastern Alaska about 50 miles west of Juneau, this 3.3-million-acre park and preserve is one of the world’s great examples of glacier retreat and the rapid ecological recolonization that follows. In the mid-1700s, the bay barely existed — the entire area was buried under a single massive glacier roughly 4,000 feet thick and 65 miles long. By the time John Muir visited in 1890, it had retreated dramatically. Today, tidewater glaciers still calve thunderously into the fjords while forests, wildlife, and marine life flourish in the newly exposed terrain behind them. No roads lead here. You arrive by air or sea, and that’s exactly the point.
Getting There and Getting Around
Glacier Bay is one of the most remote national parks in the country. The gateway community is Gustavus, Alaska, accessible by small aircraft from Juneau (about 45 minutes) or by the Alaska Marine Highway ferry system. From Gustavus, it’s a short drive or shuttle to Bartlett Cove, the park’s only developed area and the launching point for nearly all visitor activity. Most visitors arrive as part of a cruise ship itinerary — cruise ships are permitted to enter the bay one or two per day under a strict permit system — or on small charter vessels and kayaking expeditions. If you’re planning an independent trip, book accommodation in Gustavus or at Glacier Bay Lodge at Bartlett Cove well in advance. Small-plane charters from Juneau are weather-dependent; build flexibility into your schedule.
The Glacier Bay Boat Tour
The park’s concessioner-operated day boat tour is the single best way to see the park’s glaciers, and for many visitors it’s the centerpiece of their Alaskan trip. The boat departs from Bartlett Cove and travels about 65 miles up the bay to the Grand Pacific and Margerie glaciers in the Tarr Inlet, spending time in both the Johns Hopkins Inlet — where Johns Hopkins Glacier calves huge blocks of ice into the water — and the upper reaches of the bay. A park ranger accompanies every tour and provides interpretation on glaciology, ecology, and wildlife. You’ll pass Steller sea lions hauled out on ice chunks, harbor seals resting on calved icebergs with their pups, and humpback whales feeding in the nutrient-rich waters. The calving of a glacier — a slow crack followed by an explosive boom and a towering splash — is one of the most spectacular natural events you can witness. Reserve the day tour through the park concessioner at visitglacierbay.com.
Kayaking the Fjords
Independent kayaking in Glacier Bay is exceptional for experienced paddlers willing to plan carefully. The park permits kayakers in all areas of the bay, with seasonal restrictions in some zones to protect harbor seal pupping beaches and other sensitive areas. Most kayakers either paddle from Bartlett Cove — where day trips into nearby coves are feasible — or get a water taxi drop-off deeper in the bay to set up a multi-day expedition. Conditions in the bay change quickly; cold water, strong winds, and calving ice all demand respect and skill. If you’re a less experienced paddler, guided day trips and overnight expeditions operate out of Gustavus and are a safer and still highly rewarding option.
Wildlife: Brown Bears, Humpbacks, and More
Glacier Bay’s wildlife is as remarkable as its glaciers. Brown bears are common along the shores of the park, particularly in late summer when they gather at salmon streams. The park’s marine waters support large populations of humpback whales (Glacier Bay has been central to humpback research for decades), orcas, minke whales, Dall’s porpoises, and Steller sea lions. Mountain goats inhabit the steep terrain above the fjords; wolves, moose, and black bears occupy the forested southern portions of the park. Birders find the park excellent for a range of seabirds including tufted and horned puffins, pigeon guillemots, marbled murrelets, and a variety of gulls and terns. The ecological contrast between the glacier-carved upper bay and the ancient spruce-hemlock forest near Bartlett Cove illustrates succession in dramatic, visible steps.
Hiking and Land-Based Exploration
Bartlett Cove has a small but rewarding trail network for land-based visitors. The Forest Loop Trail (1 mile) winds through the Sitka spruce and western hemlock forest that has grown up on land exposed by glacier retreat over the past two centuries. The Bartlett River Trail (4 miles round-trip) follows the river through forest and wetland to an estuary where brown bear, moose, and shorebirds are commonly seen. For more ambitious exploration, backcountry hiking in the park is unrestricted and permits are free — the terrain is largely roadless, trackless, and for experienced wilderness travelers only. Ranger talks and programs run regularly at Bartlett Cove during the summer season.
Planning Your Visit
Glacier Bay is open year-round but the primary visitor season runs from late May through mid-September. The lodge and boat tours operate only in summer; most private aircraft charters and ferry connections run on limited winter schedules. Visit the official Glacier Bay NP page on nps.gov for the most current access, permit, and reservation information. For Alaskan itinerary planning that combines multiple parks and wilderness experiences, our Planning Tips section covers logistics for independent travel in this challenging but extraordinary corner of the country. Browse our Park Guides for other Alaska parks including Denali and Kenai Fjords.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do you get to Glacier Bay? Only by air or sea. Most visitors fly into Gustavus from Juneau (about 45 minutes), or arrive on cruise ships. No roads connect the park to the highway system.
Can you see glaciers calving? Yes. The day boat tour visits active tidewater glaciers including Margerie Glacier, where calving events produce spectacular ice falls and thunderous booms.
Is Glacier Bay good for kayaking? Yes, for experienced paddlers. The park allows kayaking throughout the bay with seasonal restrictions. Guided trips from Gustavus suit less experienced kayakers.
What is the best time of year to visit? Late May through mid-September when the lodge, boat tours, and services operate and wildlife activity is at its peak.